‘A Dermatologist’s Framework for Healthier Skin’ – Article by Dr. Erum Ilyas a board-certified dermatologist, Chair of Dermatology at Drexel University College of Medicine, and author of No-Nonsense Skincare: An Expert Guide to Healthier Skin
Walk into almost any bathroom today and you’ll probably find a collection of skincare products. They may be cluttering the countertop or shoved under the sink or in drawers. Some have been there for months or even years. Partially used or used once with no clear goal in mind before another one is added in.
Cleansers, multiple serums, moisturizers with sunscreen, those without it. Night creams, brightening creams, and those for firming and lifting.
How is it that somehow, in spite of having more products than ever, so many people still feel unsure whether they’re doing the right thing?
After more than 20 years as a dermatologist caring for patients across every age and stage of life, listening, discussing, and treating their skin, I’ve felt something rather surprising: most people are not struggling because they don’t care about their skin. It’s actually quite the opposite. They’re struggling because they do care and they’ve been given the message that healthier skin always means doing more. They equate more products with more effort with more skin health.
Somehow, in recent years, products have been marketed based on buzzword ingredients. I suspect this may be driven by how search engines index skincare products. People are buying products for “hero” ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, another for ceramides, the next for vitamin C, another for retinol and even more so for random ingredients they hear about like squalane or polyglutamic acid.
Each ingredient found in routine products seems to get a spotlight shone on it from time to time. Editorials love this and jump on the opportunity for more content. They focus on the effects of each individual ingredient and benefit from affiliate links to more products.
More ingredients, more steps, more clutter.
How many people stop and simply check the ingredient label of what they currently have to see if they already have that ingredient?
Just because a product is marketed for the hyaluronic acid it has, does not mean another that isn’t marketed this way is lacking it. This is similar to trying to eat a high-protein diet and choosing an ice cream because the label highlights its 2 grams of protein without stepping back to look at the rest of the nutrition label.
The spotlighted feature isn’t always the thing that matters most.
Healthy skin does not necessarily come from complexity, it comes from understanding.
Your skin is an organ. It is not just a covering for your body or a canvas to paint. It does so much more and needs to be supported for its function. It protects you from the environment, helps regulate your body temperature, supports healing and your immune system, creates vitamin D, informs you by providing sensation, and it can serve as an entry point to enter your body for things you apply to it or are exposed to.
That barrier matters.
While many people want products to penetrate deeply into the skin to have an impact, we should also appreciate that skin was designed to keep many things out. While skincare products can support healthy skin, expectations matter.
Somewhere along the way, routines became difficult to maintain and expectations became difficult to meet. This isn’t your fault. Much of it comes from vague product claims and references.
That doesn’t mean products cannot help but it does mean we should pause and ask: what role is each product actually serving?
I encourage my patients to focus on a simple framework to organize their routines: cleanse, correct, protect. If you have a product that serves one of these roles, no need to find another to do the same thing.
Before adding something new to your routine, try putting the product through my truth SERUM test.
Ask yourself:
Is there real S, Science, behind this product? Evidence it can achieve what it says it can?
Are your E, expectations, realistic? If you are bothered by extra skin sagging, for example, could a cream realistically remove this or is this wishful thinking?
Is the product R, redundant? Do you have a product that already serves the same role? For example, if you already have a cleanser, does adding another have a specific target?
What can you remove before adding more?
Will you actually commit to U, use of the product? After all, one thing that holds true for all skincare products, the only way they can potentially work is if they actually make it to your skin.
What M, metric, will you use to gauge success? For example, if you buy a product to improve fine lines and wrinkles, are you following before and after photos? Is there objective proof the product is working the way you want it to?
If success isn’t defined before starting, it becomes very difficult to know whether a product deserves a place in your routine.
When should you seek professional guidance?
- If your routine feels increasingly complicated
- If you are repeatedly adding products without improvement
- If your skin is becoming irritated
- If you are trying to manage a medical skin condition
- If you don’t know where to begin
Given that many skin challenges may actually be rooted in medical conditions, it may be worth stepping back and speaking with a qualified medical professional before experimenting with lots of skincare products.
Healthy skin shouldn’t require confusion.
And sometimes the most helpful change isn’t adding something new.
It’s finally understanding what’s already there.
Read the first chapter of Dr Ilyas’ book ‘No-Nonsense Skincare’. An Expert Guide to Healthier Skin
Medical disclaimer
This content is for general information only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always consult your GP or a qualified healthcare professional if you have any concerns about your health.